Before you go
The best checks happen before you see the car. Get the registration and run a status check — tax, MOT due date and MOT history — using the official government services or our free car check. A seller with nothing to hide will give you the registration without hesitation.
Paperwork first (checks 1–5)
- V5C logbook present and matches — keeper name and address should match the seller; the VIN should match the car. No V5C, no sale.
- MOT history reviewed — look for steadily rising mileages between tests and note every advisory.
- Service history — stamps or invoices at roughly the intervals the maker recommends. Gaps aren’t fatal; silence about them is.
- Finance status asked — ask directly whether anything is owed. Write the answer down.
- Receipt ready — a proper receipt with both names, the price, the car, the mileage and “sold as seen, buyer has inspected” protects you both.
Bodywork & interior (checks 6–12)
- View in daylight — and dry if possible. Rain hides ripples, dim lights hide mismatches.
- Panel gaps and paint — uneven gaps or shading differences hint at accident repairs.
- Wheels and tyres — all four tyres should be the same size and brand-ish, with even wear and 3 mm+ of tread. Check the spare or repair kit exists.
- Under the car — drips on the floor, corrosion on sills and subframes.
- Boot, bonnet seals and fillers — open everything; check the fuel filler and oil cap for creamy residue (coolant in oil).
- Electrics — every window, lock, light, the air-con, the infotainment, the reversing camera. One by one.
- Wear where hands go — steering wheel, pedals and driver’s seat bolster should match the claimed mileage.
The test drive (checks 13–17)
- Cold start — arrive early enough that the engine is cold; a warm engine can hide starting faults and smoke.
- Insurance to drive — never test-drive without your own cover; ask the seller to confirm theirs if they drive first.
- Mixed roads — 20 minutes including town, A-road and, if honest, a hill and a motorway stretch.
- Brakes — a firm pedal, no pull, no grind; a hard stop from ~30 mph somewhere safe.
- Gears and steering — smooth changes, no whines on turns (wheel bearings / CV joints), steering wheel straight.
Before you commit (checks 18–20)
- Price sense-check — compare against several similar cars, not one. Know what the market says before negotiating.
- Walk away test — be genuinely willing to leave. It is the single strongest negotiating tool a buyer has.
- Independent inspection for big money — spending £10k+? A professional inspection (typically £150–£250) is cheap insurance. Or let us do the whole job — see car sourcing.
A car that passes 18 of these 20 is still worth walking away from if the paperwork fails the first five. Documents and history beat shine, every time.